Smoky Crab and Tomato Bisque with Sage Goat Cheese
With the rain yesterday, I really wanted a bowl of something warm to cozy up to. I know what you're thinking. Soup when it's 85 degrees out? But just hear me out: all the ingredients are in season now, so you won't get them this fresh any other time of year, and it's so easy, you'll wish you could make it all year round. Crab is obviously great in the summer and the tomatoes my aunt gave me were just perfect. The term bisque refers to a type of soup originating in classical French cuisine. It is a creamy seafood soup that usually has a smooth consistency and is made from seafood stock. It is also sometimes incorrectly used to refer to creamy soups made from pureed, cooked vegetables like butternut squash. I cut a few corners in mine that I'll explain later because 1. sometimes you're just not in the mood to make everything perfect, and 2. sometimes you just don't have time. I will say this though, there is always a time and place to really put a lot of effort into your meals, and I try to do that as often as possible, but sometimes you just can't for whatever reason. Besides, you're a hard-working cook; you deserve delicious food as soon as you can make it! Alright enough, onto the food...
I started by opening a bottle of pinot noir to drink to let it breathe. This is one of the lightest red wines, and for this recipe, we're going for as light as possible with the ingredients since it's a cream-based bisque. Then I heated 2tsp of olive oil in my large cast iron skillet. Ok, side note: if I had to choose a favorite kitchen tool, it would probably be a three-way tie between my microplane, my large chef's knife, and my cast iron skillet. Seriously, there is just something magical about the flavor a seasoned skillet imparts. And since it is one solid piece of iron, it evenly distributes the heat over the surface of the pan more so than any cooking pan I've used.
Once your oil is nice and hot, add one medium diced white onion and a large pinch of salt, and walk away from the pan. You want the onions to slightly caramelize and if you move them around constantly, they won't have a chance to keep contact with the pan in order to do so. (TayTip: only salt your onions when you want to caramelize them. Salting them releases their water content and allows the natural sugars to caramelize.) They will start to brown and burn in some places, but that's ok because you will deglaze the skillet with 2 cups of the pinot noir. Then add 5 large diced red tomatoes. Don't worry about dicing them too small because they cook down. Make sure to put all the juice and seeds in the pan too. You want as much moisture as possible, and tomatoes are a very juicy fruit. Then add 2tsp of smoked Hungarian paprika. This is an incredible spice, and I recommend using it in place of your typical paprika. If you've ever had a burger from a charcoal grill as opposed to one cooked on a stove, you know what a difference the smoked flavor can give. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat for 10-15 minutes until it reduces by 1/3. Use the back of a wooden spoon to occasionally smush the tomatoes as they cook down.
Now take this base for your bisque, transfer to a blender or food processor, and pulse a few times until the large chunks of tomato and onion are smooth. If I was making a traditional bisque, I would take a mesh strainer and strain out the seeds and any pieces of tomato not pureed, but this is where I cut a corner. Transfer your pureed sauce back into the pan and put the heat on low. Next, add 1tsp of crushed red pepper flakes. It's important to add them after the pureeing process so that they have time to slowly release their spice. Then add 1cup of cooked crab meat. Lump, claw, it doesn't really matter, use whatever type of meat you like. This is an easy meal, remember? And last but not least, add 1cup of heavy cream. Here's where the decadence comes into play. Now let it sit because if you're making this to eat immediately like I was, this is the only time the flavors will have to meld together before you get the first meal out of the bisque.
If you noticed, I really haven't added much seasoning to the bisque other than salt, paprika, and crushed red pepper. I didn't even use garlic, people, so that should've been a red flag! This is because I don't want anything to overpower the gentle, sweet flavor of the crab meat. It's very easy to obstruct that flavor with loads of garlic and a lot of herbs, so I decided to stick to a single vein and only add one herb at the end. This is where the sage goat cheese happens. This is very similar to a compound butter, and is just as easy to make. First take your goat cheese out of the fridge so it can warm up a little. Setting it beside the warm stove burner works perfectly. Then take 18-20 small sage leaves and chop them as small as you can get them. Almost like a paste (TayTip: you can chop the sage much more easily by stacking the leaves on top of each other in a single pile). You should have a little less than 1/4 cup at the end. Mix with 10oz. of goat cheese and 1tsp of cracked black pepper. To store, lie a long piece of saran wrap over a cutting board and pile the mixture on top. Take one side of the saran wrap and fold it over, then slowly roll and mold the cheese until you have a log shape, folding over the other piece of saran wrap. Twist the ends and store in the fridge. This allows you to slice little medallions to place atop the hot bisque.
The next step is to EAT this delicious bisque. Slice a couple of goat cheese coins and set them right on top of your steaming bowl.
As the cheese melts, the sage reaches the warm orange lava and its earthy, woodsy flavor turns into perfume. If Kennedy could put a man on the moon FORTY-FOUR years ago, why haven't we developed smell-o-vision yet? But I digress. Sage has also been used in teas, salves, and aromatherapy for centuries to calm nerves and reduce anxiety. Perfect for bisque on a rainy day, right? I can't tell you how wonderfully sweet the crab meat is. You really need to make this! The Hungarian paprika gives just enough punch to have a little tussle with the sweet crab and tangy goat cheese. The ultimate fight for flavor. But the little kiss of pinot noir makes everyone shake hands at the end of the match...I mean meal. The next time you want something warm and flavorful on a rainy day, make this bisque...tomato soup will never seem the same. Buon appetito!
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